Welcome to V-Drive California, a site to share my 1975 Sanger Flatbottom Bubbledeck Family Ski V-drive information with others that love the water and hot boats

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Build Your Own Dolly

I needed to get the boat off the trailer to make some trailer repairs and do some bottom work on the boat. So I had to put together a dolly that would make it easy to get the boat onto and then make it easy to move around the garage to work on also. The following is a step by step "how-to" put a dolly together. My boat is a 18'-10" Sanger Flat bottom, and the basic dimensions (41" wide x 11'-0" length) of the dolly are based on where the bunks are setup under the boat. These dimensions I got from the trailer setup.

Here is the Material List:

All lumber is type Douglas Fir #2 or better
                MATERIAL                      USE FOR:
                2 each - 2” x 6” x 12’       (Bunks)
                3 each - 2” x 4” x 12’       
                (Longitudinal base frame members, bunk risers)
                1 each - 2” x 4” x 10’       (Center cross members)
                1 each - 2” x 4” x 8’         (End cross members)
                3 each – Plywood Panels ¾”x 24” x 24” (Gussets)
                1 box - 3” Gold Screws
                1 box - 2” Gold Screws
                16 - 3/8-16 x 1 1/2” Hex Head Bolts
                16 - 3/8-16 Hex Nuts
                32 - 3/8 Flat Washers
                4 each - 5”x2” Swivel Castors Harbor Freight #38711

Here is the Cut List:

Bunks - Cut 2x6x12 down to 11’-0”          2 each
Bunk Risers-Cut 1 of the 2x4x12’ into 12” lengths   10 each
Base Frame Longitudinals – Cut 2 of the 2x4x12 down to 10’-9” 
Base Frame Center Cross Members – Cut down to 38”     3 each
Base Frame End Cross Members –  Cut down to 41”        2 each
Base Frame Gussets – Cut each 24”panel diagonally in half    6 each

 Set up all materials – Check for proper cuts, inventory parts.

                There are 4 parts in this project:     1) Base Frame 2) Bunk Risers 3) Castors 4) Bunks

Base Frame
1) Setup base longitudinal members on floor
2) Layout measurements for center cross members. From rear measure 31 ½”, 63 ¾”, 96”, and mark with a framing angle. This will be the face mark for the cross member from the rear. Check for equal distances between front and rear. Adjust if necessary.
3) Fit the end cross members into place and pre-drill for 3” screws
4) Fit the center cross members into place and pre-drill for 3” screws
5) Assemble the end and center cross members with 3” screws
6) Flip the entire frame over
7) Fit the gussets to all corners and center cross member and pre-drill for 2” screws
8) Assemble the gussets with 2” screws
9) Flip the entire frame over again


Bunk Risers 
Note: If your hull design requires any of the bunk risers to have an angle cut complete these cuts before the final assembly of the bunk risers onto the base frame if you have a table saw or compound miter saw. If not then mount them first and cut the angle with a skil saw.

1) Assemble the 4 corner pieces with 2” screws only before mounting to the frame
2) Fit the corner pieces into place with the 5” side facing to the short length of the frame
3) Pre-drill thru the base frame into each of the riser members. Short and long length sides
4) Fit the center risers to the center cross member and pre-drill thru the riser
5) Assemble all risers to the base frame with 3” screws

1) Using a castor, place on the inside the corner riser and mark all 4 mounting holes. Do this at all 4 corners noting the direction of the long side of the castor base plate
2) Place a support under the frame and drill holes with clearance drill size for a 3/8” bolt
3) Flip the frame over and let it stand on the risers
4) Mount the 4 castors using the 3/8-16 hex hardware and flat washers
5) Tighten until set into wood member
6) Flip the frame back over to the upright side

1) Set the 2 x 6 bunks onto risers
2) Align the bunk flush with the outside base frame and end of base frame
3) Layout the risers on top of the bunk to get a screw pattern
4) Pre-drill each of the riser locations for 3” screws
5) Mount bunks with 3” screws

Monday, March 12, 2012


Got a nice shot during our New Years Event out at Camp Far West of the Sanger in full on bull riding mode!

And some others of my favorites

All the Bling Added

Since the motor resurrection was complete, I had to finalized the rest of the boat's mechanical, electrical, fuel and water systems. I added all new Autometer mechanical gauges in the dash (Fuel PSI, Oil PSI, Water Temp) with red billet bezels and a new tach with recall. The electrical wiring was renewed through the entire boat with a fuse panel under the dash and a new Optima battery with a billet aluminum battery box with new heavy locomotive cables to a new battery cut-out switch. Also added a ignition safety switch too just for safety purposes.

I found a deal on a 1" Magnaflow water pump and replaced the old Neovane unit with all new stainless steel water lines installed everywhere. The fuel tanks were leaking so they had to be welded up at the bungs and all new stainless steel fuel lines were then added along with a new pump, filter and fittings.

I finished polishing all the aluminum parts, linkage, intake and anything that wasn't already shiny and added some new chromed fabricated valve covers to top it all off. All of this in preparation for the 2012 Sacramento Autorama Show which we had 18 boats entered. It was a really good showing of boats from all our local owners.